Choosing the correct hook can be a very overwhelming process. The options are seemingly endless - shapes, sizes, materials. Consider the basics when making a selection and build from there. The "Keep it Simple" concept is the best place to start.
We're going to start with understanding the anatomy of a hook and some of the more common variations used in their construction. Over the years the tackle industry has exponentially expanded and there are now a considerable number of manufacturers out there, all with their own unique styles and variations based off or a combination of the standard types discussed here. Once you have a solid foundation of what your needs are, I encourage you to do your research and find the tweaks that may prove to be your winning combination.
Saltwater vs Freshwater:
First, what waters are you fishing. This matters because a freshwater hook will not survive in saltwater and likely will be too small. A saltwater hook will be unaffected by freshwater, but it will be much heavier and bulkier and will likely scare off your targets.
- Saltwater hooks are generally a much heavier gauge and heavier material for a corrosion resistant, stronger hook. Saltwater hooks need to be strong enough to do battle with much larger, stronger fish and stand up to the highly corrosive saltwater they're used in.
- Freshwater hooks tend to be smaller, thinner and lighter. Freshwater hooks are focused in finesse style fishing to tempt and outfox highly suspicious fish. They need to be well hidden while presenting naturally with a much smaller bait.
Hook Sizes:
Understanding how to read hook sizes matters tremendously when choosing a hook. You need a hook that will match the size of the bait you are using and most importantly, be appropriate for the fish you are targeting.
Hook sizes start as whole numbers, the larger the number, the smaller the hook. For example a fly hook could be #32 (read as "number 32") meaning incredibly tiny and a bass hook could be a size #8 meaning much larger. Once we start looking into larger sized hooks for larger fish, they are referred to as "1/0" read: "one aught"; the leading number gets increasingly larger as the size of the hook gets larger.
Back in the day, when wire was manufactured, '0' was considered the baseline or starting point. If the wire gauge was smaller, it was referenced as #1, #2, #3 etc. indicating thinner gauges from 0 with the highest numbers being the thinnest. But if they needed to go bigger than 0, they would step up: 1/0 - 1 step from 0, 2/0 - 2 steps from 0, and so on. The larger the leading number, the thicker the gauge from the starting point.
'/0' is read as 'aught' which actually means "all or everything". To confuse a confusing concept a little more, "aught" became confused with "naught" (meaning zero or nothing) and replaced it when referencing the number zero, hence the numbers are read "One aught."
Gauge:
Gauge refers to the thickness of the wire the hook is made from. This is pretty easy to interpret. Thickness needed depends on the fish you are targeting and the size of the hook you are using. You wouldn't want to use a fine hook if targeting a really aggressive fighter or an extra thick if you are targeting smaller trout. Thickness also depends where in the water column you are fishing. If fishing on top, a thinner or medium hook would be best, if fishing on bottom, heavy or thick would work best.
Gauges are typically referenced as:
Thin, light or fine
Medium or Standard
Heavy or Thick
Extra Thick
Some manufacturers will also make it simpler with a scale. Standard being the baseline or 0. As the hook gets thinner, the number will increase as the hook gets thinner - 1X Thin, 2X Thin, etc. As it gets thicker, the number will increase as thickness increases - 1X Thick, 2X Thick, etc.
Parts of the Hook
Length: Length refers to the shank length. Shank length is probably the least talked about part of the hook but it plays a crucial role in the way your lure is presented. When using soft plastics, too long a shank, can give your lure a more rigid, unnatural appearance. Think of it as the shank giving your lure to long and strong of a spine not allowing it to swim naturally. However, too short of a shank and it will position the hook too far up on the body. When the fish strikes, it will miss the hook because it's too far away from the strike zone on the lure. When possible, it's best to hold the hook up to the lure body so you can see how the hook and lure match up.
Gap (or Gape): Gap is the distance between the point and the shank of the hook. Choosing the correct gap matters based on the bait you are using and species you are targeting. The gap determines how well the hook can penetrate and hold into a fish's mouth. If you have a thicker bodied soft plastic, you'll want a larger gap so the body of the lure does not get in the way of the hook. Conversely, if you have a thinner bodied lure, you would not want a hook with too large of a gap.
Eye: The eye is the loop through which the fishing line is threaded - just like a sewing needle has an eye. There are various types of hook eyes and the type of eye chosen, depends on the type of fishing you are doing.
- Ringed Eye: This eye is an open loop and the most commonly used eye across salt and freshwater fishing. Great for live bait fishing because the ring allows the bait to move freely, appearing less restricted.
- Brazed Eye or Welded Eye: This eye is a closed loop. This is preferred when line abrasion is a concern for example, when using heavy drag, trolling or targeting larger, heavy fish. Also preferred by most anglers to protect their line.
- Looped Eye: This eye is an open elongated loop. Great for maximizing action when fishing with top water lures or jig heads.
- Needle Eye: This eye is a narrow elongated eye like a sewing needle. Use when fishing for big game fish and with wire leader. Not suitable for monofilament as the sharpness of the eye hole will cut it.
- Tapered Eye: This eye is similar to a Ringed Eye, except the end gradually narrows at the loop opening. Predominantly used in fly fishing, the tapered eye allows for finer finesse and weight/bulk reduction versus a ringed eye.
Aside from eye construction, there are various eye styles which offer differing levels of benefit.
| Standard Ringed Eye: The base design where the shank is straight and the eye is simply bent into a standard ring eye. |  |
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Ringed, Ringed Eye: An additional ring is put through the hook eye which adds more freedom of movement. Ideal for fishing with live bait. |
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Up Eye: Eye is positioned up and away from the shank. When fly fishing, they aid in maintaining a specific, often upright, orientation during a swing and also allow for larger knots. When fishing in saltwater, the upward angle is ideal for snell knots, which, when pulled, create a straight line of tension from the line to the hook point for better penetration. Often found on octopus and circle hooks, the design assists in hooking fish in the corner of the mouth, which is vital for catch-and-release. |
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Down Eye: Eye is positioned downward toward the shank of the hook. Use with a snell when bottom fishing or jigging for a faster sink rate, natural presentation and more accurate hook set. |
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Big Eye: A larger than normal eye allowing for heavier line and making it easier to tie knots. Use when fishing for big game fish. |
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Cross Eye: Eye is angled at 90 degrees to the shank. Allows the hook to be fished vertically making them ideal when fishing with soft plastics or live bait, as they enhance presentation and movement. They help lures, like jigs or shaky heads, stay upright and navigate through obstructions without rolling on their side. |
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Open Eye: Eye is easily opened and closed. Also referred to as Siwash Hooks, commonly used as single hook replacements for spoons, spinners, and plugs without needing a split ring. They are also commonly used when replacing treble hooks or making custom rigs. |
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Side Eye: Eye is directly in line with the hook. Best when horizontal presentation is needed. In lure fishing, they aid in maintaining a true, straight profile when using a line in motion and can help in providing a more natural, less obstructed presentation for certain types of artificial lures.
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Hook Point
Next thing to consider is the type of hook point you will need, again based on the species you are targeting.
The basic hook points are:
| Needle Point: The point is straight, very sharp with a tapered tip. Ideal for quick, deep penetration when targeting fish with softer mouths such as fluke, weakfish, or trout. The sharper, smaller point minimizes damage to the fish making them ideal for live bait. These points require minimal force to secure the hook set making them ideal for finesse fishing with light tackle. |  |
| Spear Point: Point tapers smoothly to a straight tip. Perfect for drop shot, Neko rigs and wacky rigs. This point type provides fast, secure penetration. Great for when targeting aggressive fish that are likely to jump or spit a hook out. |  |
| Hollow Point: Point is concave, very sharp with a tapered tip. The curved tip helps lock the fish in place on the hook providing a secure hold without damaging the fish. Ideal for lighter tackle when targeting softer mouthed fish. |  |
| Knife Edge Point: Point has a flat, angled cutting surface on one or both sides. Designed to pierce through tough, boney mouths, they are ideal when targeting big game or aggressive fish. These hooks will damage most fish and should not be used when catch and release fishing or on lighter tackle. |  |
| Rolled In Point: Sometimes called a beak hook, the point is slightly curved inward toward the shank. The inward pointed design provides a deep, secure hold and is best when targeting fish that jump, thrash or shake their heads. This type of hook is also good for hard mouthed species because it can penetrate deeply without a lot of pressure, lessening the damage to the fish. It is also good for long distance casting with live bait as the hook design keeps the bait from flying off. |  |
For a quick reference, a summary chart is listed here.
Now that you have a good understanding of how hooks are constructed and their effect on performance, check out The Right Hook: Part 2 Styles & Applications where we go over the more commonly used styles of hooks or jump to The Right Hook: Part 3 Jig Heads where we dive into various styles of artificial lures.
Happy Fishing!
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